What is the best insulation for a finished basement?
Q. I want to finish my basement. It has poured concrete walls and no flooding or moisture I've noticed.. I've seen stuff about vapor barrior, and spray in insulation, and the roll out fiberglass batt insulation. Is there a best for the price insulation, + what about the framing for the drywall after the insulation? Do you frame before or after a spray in insulation?
Asked by jeff b - Mon Jan 4 12:16:15 2010 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Rigid foam panels
Answered by GuitarGeorge - Mon Jan 4 12:38:41 2010
Q. I want to finish my basement. It has poured concrete walls and no flooding or moisture I've noticed.. I've seen stuff about vapor barrior, and spray in insulation, and the roll out fiberglass batt insulation. Is there a best for the price insulation, + what about the framing for the drywall after the insulation? Do you frame before or after a spray in insulation?
Asked by jeff b - Mon Jan 4 12:16:15 2010 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Rigid foam panels
Answered by GuitarGeorge - Mon Jan 4 12:38:41 2010
How are insulation and ventilation dealt with in a loft conversion?
Q. When a loft has not been converted, you are supposed to put insulation on the floor of the loft. There also has to be ventilation under the eaves to prevent condensation. But when a loft has been converted to an extra room, what should be done about insulation and ventilation? I suppose you would remove the insulation on the loft floor, because you no longer want to prevent heat entering the loft, so would you insulate the sloping roof itself? And you would not want a breeze flowing through the loft, so would you cut down on the ventilation?
Asked by ANNE-MARIE A - Sat Feb 21 22:52:11 2009 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The sloping timbers on a roof are called rafters, a lot of the time they are 100mm from edge to edge but when converting a loft building control say that we have to put 90mm foil backed insulation between the rafters while still maintaining a 40mm gap for airflow, additional timbers are fixed to the under side of the rafters to obtain the extra 30mm or so needed to fulfil their requirements. Having done that they say that we then need to fix 30mm foilbacked insulation covering the complete underside of the rafters before fixing the plasterboard to eliminate any coldness that would normally occur if the plasterboard was in direct contact with the rafter, this is refered to as a "Cold bridge" As for the insulation in the floor, there is… [cont.]
Answered by Paul G - Sun Feb 22 05:17:20 2009
Q. When a loft has not been converted, you are supposed to put insulation on the floor of the loft. There also has to be ventilation under the eaves to prevent condensation. But when a loft has been converted to an extra room, what should be done about insulation and ventilation? I suppose you would remove the insulation on the loft floor, because you no longer want to prevent heat entering the loft, so would you insulate the sloping roof itself? And you would not want a breeze flowing through the loft, so would you cut down on the ventilation?
Asked by ANNE-MARIE A - Sat Feb 21 22:52:11 2009 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The sloping timbers on a roof are called rafters, a lot of the time they are 100mm from edge to edge but when converting a loft building control say that we have to put 90mm foil backed insulation between the rafters while still maintaining a 40mm gap for airflow, additional timbers are fixed to the under side of the rafters to obtain the extra 30mm or so needed to fulfil their requirements. Having done that they say that we then need to fix 30mm foilbacked insulation covering the complete underside of the rafters before fixing the plasterboard to eliminate any coldness that would normally occur if the plasterboard was in direct contact with the rafter, this is refered to as a "Cold bridge" As for the insulation in the floor, there is… [cont.]
Answered by Paul G - Sun Feb 22 05:17:20 2009
Will regular insulation from a store work to cover A/C wires from unit to the house?
Q. My dog chewed the insulation off the wires/hose that runs from my a/c unit to the house. Can I use regular foam insulation from a hardware store or do I need to contact an A/C repair person to get the thicker insulation that was originally on there?
Asked by robert21979 - Tue Jul 1 14:43:30 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. You need to find a real 'electrician' supply house...not Home Repo or Wallyworld...and ask for exterior grade wrap insulation. If ANY of the wires got chewed down to the metal, don't mess with it-call your electrician or A/C man and have the wires REPLACED...exposed wires WILL eventually contact water and arc and short. IF the wires are NOT chewed down, I'd wrap them firmly with exterior black electricians tape, THEN add the exterior grade insulation. Then move the dog run somewhere else in the yard!
Answered by signman_03743 - Tue Jul 1 14:51:35 2008
Q. My dog chewed the insulation off the wires/hose that runs from my a/c unit to the house. Can I use regular foam insulation from a hardware store or do I need to contact an A/C repair person to get the thicker insulation that was originally on there?
Asked by robert21979 - Tue Jul 1 14:43:30 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. You need to find a real 'electrician' supply house...not Home Repo or Wallyworld...and ask for exterior grade wrap insulation. If ANY of the wires got chewed down to the metal, don't mess with it-call your electrician or A/C man and have the wires REPLACED...exposed wires WILL eventually contact water and arc and short. IF the wires are NOT chewed down, I'd wrap them firmly with exterior black electricians tape, THEN add the exterior grade insulation. Then move the dog run somewhere else in the yard!
Answered by signman_03743 - Tue Jul 1 14:51:35 2008
What kind of insulation should I use to replace destroyed insulation in an electric stove?
Q. The original insulation has been destroyed by mice building nests. Even if we don't HAVE to replace this, what type of insulation should I be looking for that is safe?
Asked by drinkmusicnow - Mon Nov 24 12:54:13 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. non-backed fiberglass insulation
Answered by nuckelbuster - Mon Nov 24 13:24:21 2008
Q. The original insulation has been destroyed by mice building nests. Even if we don't HAVE to replace this, what type of insulation should I be looking for that is safe?
Asked by drinkmusicnow - Mon Nov 24 12:54:13 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. non-backed fiberglass insulation
Answered by nuckelbuster - Mon Nov 24 13:24:21 2008
Anyone with experience of the insulation powder that you add to paint to help with insulation?
Q. I have heard about an insulation power that you mix in with your regular paint before painting. Apparently this helps with insulation. Comments and/or experience welcomed.
Asked by Liedjie - Tue Jul 8 20:39:36 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The R value for this is small. Too small to consider for any type of Resistance to heat gain or loss through the home. What are you trying to insulate?
Answered by gizmoe - Tue Jul 8 21:36:00 2008
Q. I have heard about an insulation power that you mix in with your regular paint before painting. Apparently this helps with insulation. Comments and/or experience welcomed.
Asked by Liedjie - Tue Jul 8 20:39:36 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. The R value for this is small. Too small to consider for any type of Resistance to heat gain or loss through the home. What are you trying to insulate?
Answered by gizmoe - Tue Jul 8 21:36:00 2008
I know there are insulation and non-insulation can lights. Are recessed lights safe to use?
Q. I get paranoid about these things. Even though I bought can lights to put up, is it safe to put insulation right up next to it even though it is rated that it can be?
Asked by mrduckmann - Mon Oct 1 10:36:00 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Building codes vary from area to area but generally speaking, if the cans are IC (Insulation Contact) then it is rated safe to be right up close and personal with insulation. But this is not to say that insulation should go on TOP of the can. They are safe if installed properly. Another designation you will find with these lights is "air tight". This link will explain in more detail.
Answered by DIYpro - Mon Oct 1 10:48:58 2007
Q. I get paranoid about these things. Even though I bought can lights to put up, is it safe to put insulation right up next to it even though it is rated that it can be?
Asked by mrduckmann - Mon Oct 1 10:36:00 2007 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Building codes vary from area to area but generally speaking, if the cans are IC (Insulation Contact) then it is rated safe to be right up close and personal with insulation. But this is not to say that insulation should go on TOP of the can. They are safe if installed properly. Another designation you will find with these lights is "air tight". This link will explain in more detail.
Answered by DIYpro - Mon Oct 1 10:48:58 2007
What is the best house insulation available?
Q. I need help! I dont know which is the best thermal house insulation for the outside part of my house, which is made of of concrete and bricks. I want to know which insulation could resist against the lowest temperature. Please help me!! I would really appreciate it.
Asked by prchick23 - Mon Feb 19 13:57:34 2007 - - 6 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Insulation is measured by "R" factor, meaning resistance to heat transfer. The most "R per inch" in typical insulation materials is probably isocyanurate foam board, which is about R-11 per inch.
Answered by greencreeper - Mon Feb 19 14:01:49 2007
Q. I need help! I dont know which is the best thermal house insulation for the outside part of my house, which is made of of concrete and bricks. I want to know which insulation could resist against the lowest temperature. Please help me!! I would really appreciate it.
Asked by prchick23 - Mon Feb 19 13:57:34 2007 - - 6 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Insulation is measured by "R" factor, meaning resistance to heat transfer. The most "R per inch" in typical insulation materials is probably isocyanurate foam board, which is about R-11 per inch.
Answered by greencreeper - Mon Feb 19 14:01:49 2007
How much insulation would be needed for my home?
Q. I want to insulate the attic of my home. My house is 980 square feet. So about how much insulation would I need to do just the attic?
Asked by elie101_forever - Wed Nov 12 14:36:10 2008 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. 980 sf of R-30 insulation. If your attic currently has insulation, you will want un-faced batt insulation (can be 16" or 24" wide). If there is no insulation, then you will need faced insulation of the width between your ceiling joists. Good luck...
Answered by W. C. - Wed Nov 12 15:17:01 2008
Q. I want to insulate the attic of my home. My house is 980 square feet. So about how much insulation would I need to do just the attic?
Asked by elie101_forever - Wed Nov 12 14:36:10 2008 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. 980 sf of R-30 insulation. If your attic currently has insulation, you will want un-faced batt insulation (can be 16" or 24" wide). If there is no insulation, then you will need faced insulation of the width between your ceiling joists. Good luck...
Answered by W. C. - Wed Nov 12 15:17:01 2008
How can i get fiberglass insulation out of my clothes?
Q. I have been working in blown insulation the past month or so, and all my clothes has insulation in them, I keep washing them, but its not coming out. Anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of it?
Asked by Joe C - Sun Apr 6 20:38:32 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Keep washing and rewashing them.
Answered by Mike G - Sun Apr 6 20:50:02 2008
Q. I have been working in blown insulation the past month or so, and all my clothes has insulation in them, I keep washing them, but its not coming out. Anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of it?
Asked by Joe C - Sun Apr 6 20:38:32 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Keep washing and rewashing them.
Answered by Mike G - Sun Apr 6 20:50:02 2008
What to use to replace insulation on casement windows?
Q. My casement windows date from 1975. The insulation strip around the window is hard and there is now quite a draft. I now spend $100-200 to cover all the windows with plastic during the winter. The manufacturer no longer makes this insulation strip. Any suggestions on what I can use to replace the strip that is somewhat custom moldable so the window will still open and close? Calking around the window has already been done. This strip is the part that is actually attached to the window.
Asked by Doodlestuff - Fri May 16 09:25:18 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Take a chunk of it to a glass shop, they have lots of different sources on weatherstrip. A window from 1975 has reached the end of its life, consider just getting a new window with Low E coating on the glass. Dr. B - she is asking about the weatherstrip, not insulation.
Answered by Dancer on Earth - Fri May 16 10:20:15 2008
Q. My casement windows date from 1975. The insulation strip around the window is hard and there is now quite a draft. I now spend $100-200 to cover all the windows with plastic during the winter. The manufacturer no longer makes this insulation strip. Any suggestions on what I can use to replace the strip that is somewhat custom moldable so the window will still open and close? Calking around the window has already been done. This strip is the part that is actually attached to the window.
Asked by Doodlestuff - Fri May 16 09:25:18 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Take a chunk of it to a glass shop, they have lots of different sources on weatherstrip. A window from 1975 has reached the end of its life, consider just getting a new window with Low E coating on the glass. Dr. B - she is asking about the weatherstrip, not insulation.
Answered by Dancer on Earth - Fri May 16 10:20:15 2008
How does the insulation of an electric blanket compare with an extension cord? Can you take a picture?
Q. I recently purchased a Biddeford electric blanket and I'm wondering how to wire insulation compares with an extension cord. I would imagine it would be more rugged but the wires feel so small and flexible that I question it. I'd like to remove the wires from the blanket to get a better look but I'd rather not damage the brand new blanket! If you can post a photo, please do!
Asked by John - Sun Nov 23 18:21:17 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Just look for the UL label. If it wears the UL label, it has been tested to the nth degree and is safe. -
Answered by JD7 - Sun Nov 23 18:28:48 2008
Q. I recently purchased a Biddeford electric blanket and I'm wondering how to wire insulation compares with an extension cord. I would imagine it would be more rugged but the wires feel so small and flexible that I question it. I'd like to remove the wires from the blanket to get a better look but I'd rather not damage the brand new blanket! If you can post a photo, please do!
Asked by John - Sun Nov 23 18:21:17 2008 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Just look for the UL label. If it wears the UL label, it has been tested to the nth degree and is safe. -
Answered by JD7 - Sun Nov 23 18:28:48 2008
Can we add insulation to the attic during the winter?
Q. Our upstairs is very cold, and the attic could use another layer of insulation. Can we add that now or should we wait til the spring?
Asked by Mitten - Mon Dec 12 21:16:33 2005 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. You can add Insulation at any time of the year. You'll want to use Batt Insulation...Insulation without paper. You must be careful not to cover the eave vents where the roof touches the tops of the walls. A roof needs to breathe year-round so make sure not to block eave vents and gable vents. If your attic has a fan, be sure that the thermostat is set between 95 and 115 degrees.
Answered by raybecker@verizon.net - Mon Dec 12 21:22:49 2005
Q. Our upstairs is very cold, and the attic could use another layer of insulation. Can we add that now or should we wait til the spring?
Asked by Mitten - Mon Dec 12 21:16:33 2005 - - 2 Answers - 0 Comments
A. You can add Insulation at any time of the year. You'll want to use Batt Insulation...Insulation without paper. You must be careful not to cover the eave vents where the roof touches the tops of the walls. A roof needs to breathe year-round so make sure not to block eave vents and gable vents. If your attic has a fan, be sure that the thermostat is set between 95 and 115 degrees.
Answered by raybecker@verizon.net - Mon Dec 12 21:22:49 2005
How easy is it to remove fibre glass loft insulation?
Q. I want to remove the old 100mm fibre glass insulation rolls from my loft and replace them with a SuperQuilt type option (i.e. 100mm thickness but the equivalent of the recommended 270mm thickness). I cannot add the new insulation on top, as I need to keep the total insulation below the height of the joists to allow me to put boarding down for storage. Therefore, does anyone know how difficult/ dangerous/ unpleasant removing fibre glass rolls is? Any tips? Or should I not even bother?!?! Thanks
Asked by stu - Sun Nov 4 06:41:33 2007 - - 8 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Its not a fun job. Definitely buy a mask, overalls and gloves. You will get hot and it is unpleasant. You could alternatively get thinner insulation and place it on top of the old. Or if you are going to use the loft on a regular basis, insultation the roof instead.
Answered by Tobias - Sun Nov 4 06:46:38 2007
Q. I want to remove the old 100mm fibre glass insulation rolls from my loft and replace them with a SuperQuilt type option (i.e. 100mm thickness but the equivalent of the recommended 270mm thickness). I cannot add the new insulation on top, as I need to keep the total insulation below the height of the joists to allow me to put boarding down for storage. Therefore, does anyone know how difficult/ dangerous/ unpleasant removing fibre glass rolls is? Any tips? Or should I not even bother?!?! Thanks
Asked by stu - Sun Nov 4 06:41:33 2007 - - 8 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Its not a fun job. Definitely buy a mask, overalls and gloves. You will get hot and it is unpleasant. You could alternatively get thinner insulation and place it on top of the old. Or if you are going to use the loft on a regular basis, insultation the roof instead.
Answered by Tobias - Sun Nov 4 06:46:38 2007
What is the best type of insulation for keeping the interior walls of a metal building cooler in the summer?
Q. I know it is going to be hot inside no matter what. I am wondering what type of insulation will keep the walls the coolest, or the lowest temperature? Foam sheets, spray foam, fiberglass roll insulation, etc.
Asked by . - Sat Oct 24 15:31:57 2009 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
Q. I know it is going to be hot inside no matter what. I am wondering what type of insulation will keep the walls the coolest, or the lowest temperature? Foam sheets, spray foam, fiberglass roll insulation, etc.
Asked by . - Sat Oct 24 15:31:57 2009 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
Insulation in a Detached Unheated Garage- Is this okay?
Q. I just moved into a new house and it has a workshop/garage behind the house. One of the previous owners insulated the garage but I'm near the ocean in a somewhat damp location. Without any form of climate control (heat) in this garage, I was wondering if it was okay to have fiberglass insulation in there? I guess I'm concerned that the insulation will keep moisture against the inside walls of the garage and/or encourage mold growth? I've removed a section of the insulation and it seems as though the wood is okay. The garage structure is about 45 years old, I'm not sure when the insulation was put up. Probably at least 20 years ago.
Asked by Adam D - Wed Oct 3 09:48:12 2007 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. It certainly won't hurt to leave the insulation in place. The only time it would hurt is if you developed a leak in the roof or sides of the garage. Mold needs moisture to grow. It sounds as though the walls and ceiling are not drywalled. Mice and birds will use the insulation for nesting. I would recommend either covering with drywall. Or rremoving the insulation, if not protected from varmints.
Answered by handyrandy - Wed Oct 3 10:05:42 2007
Q. I just moved into a new house and it has a workshop/garage behind the house. One of the previous owners insulated the garage but I'm near the ocean in a somewhat damp location. Without any form of climate control (heat) in this garage, I was wondering if it was okay to have fiberglass insulation in there? I guess I'm concerned that the insulation will keep moisture against the inside walls of the garage and/or encourage mold growth? I've removed a section of the insulation and it seems as though the wood is okay. The garage structure is about 45 years old, I'm not sure when the insulation was put up. Probably at least 20 years ago.
Asked by Adam D - Wed Oct 3 09:48:12 2007 - - 3 Answers - 0 Comments
A. It certainly won't hurt to leave the insulation in place. The only time it would hurt is if you developed a leak in the roof or sides of the garage. Mold needs moisture to grow. It sounds as though the walls and ceiling are not drywalled. Mice and birds will use the insulation for nesting. I would recommend either covering with drywall. Or rremoving the insulation, if not protected from varmints.
Answered by handyrandy - Wed Oct 3 10:05:42 2007
Any way to wash fiberglas from insulation out of clothes, or should I throw them out?
Q. I had to take panelling & insulation down to get the basement waterproofed & the loose insulation covered me with fiberglas.
Asked by markredwing - Fri Feb 23 19:08:48 2007 - - 9 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Toss 'em...Don't take the chance of not only having the fiberglass still present in your clothes after washing, but the fibers may be able to stick around your washer, possibly getting on your other clothes in the future
Answered by jeninsocal - Fri Feb 23 19:14:27 2007
Q. I had to take panelling & insulation down to get the basement waterproofed & the loose insulation covered me with fiberglas.
Asked by markredwing - Fri Feb 23 19:08:48 2007 - - 9 Answers - 0 Comments
A. Toss 'em...Don't take the chance of not only having the fiberglass still present in your clothes after washing, but the fibers may be able to stick around your washer, possibly getting on your other clothes in the future
Answered by jeninsocal - Fri Feb 23 19:14:27 2007
what is the best type of sound insulation?
Q. what is the best type of sound insulation to put under a wooden floor. I am doing an attic conversion and have a plywood base on the 2nd floor and wish to put sound insulation between the plywood and the final pine flooring. I have heard acquistic cork is good but trojan underfloor padding is cheaper.What brand names can people recomend? How good are they ?
Asked by mchughe1 - Sun Apr 22 15:32:42 2007 - - 7 Answers - 0 Comments
A. See the links for several options. Others can be found with a Google search (floor+soundproof). The degree of "soundproofing" will depend on thickness and material chosen. Note, however, that all of these materials will only work right if there are no nails or screws from the top layer (finish floor) into the subfloor to creat bridging (or coupling of the two surfaces). The sounddeadening works by decoupling the vibration (noise) of the finish floor from the subfloor and joists. This means you should be thinking of a carpet or floating laminate or glue-down hardwood mounted onto a second plywood subfloor layer ($$) above the sound deadening material.
Answered by agb90spruce - Sun Apr 22 16:11:18 2007
Q. what is the best type of sound insulation to put under a wooden floor. I am doing an attic conversion and have a plywood base on the 2nd floor and wish to put sound insulation between the plywood and the final pine flooring. I have heard acquistic cork is good but trojan underfloor padding is cheaper.What brand names can people recomend? How good are they ?
Asked by mchughe1 - Sun Apr 22 15:32:42 2007 - - 7 Answers - 0 Comments
A. See the links for several options. Others can be found with a Google search (floor+soundproof). The degree of "soundproofing" will depend on thickness and material chosen. Note, however, that all of these materials will only work right if there are no nails or screws from the top layer (finish floor) into the subfloor to creat bridging (or coupling of the two surfaces). The sounddeadening works by decoupling the vibration (noise) of the finish floor from the subfloor and joists. This means you should be thinking of a carpet or floating laminate or glue-down hardwood mounted onto a second plywood subfloor layer ($$) above the sound deadening material.
Answered by agb90spruce - Sun Apr 22 16:11:18 2007
How do you install insulation in attic with flooring?
Q. I need to put more insulation in my attic. It is finished for storage and has a wood floor. Where do I insulate? Do I just lay it on the floor for the winter and put my boxes on top? Do I need to do something special along the edges? What kind should I use and is there a tip for installing? Thanks!
Asked by karenldee - Fri Oct 26 19:59:40 2007 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. yes put your insulation over your floor it does the same job good luck.
Answered by JOHN B - Fri Oct 26 20:14:44 2007
Q. I need to put more insulation in my attic. It is finished for storage and has a wood floor. Where do I insulate? Do I just lay it on the floor for the winter and put my boxes on top? Do I need to do something special along the edges? What kind should I use and is there a tip for installing? Thanks!
Asked by karenldee - Fri Oct 26 19:59:40 2007 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. yes put your insulation over your floor it does the same job good luck.
Answered by JOHN B - Fri Oct 26 20:14:44 2007
What is the correct insulation for my walls?
Q. i'm having work done on my unit and the contractor is using fiberglass insulation that does not have paper backing. it is R-13, which I read is the correct rating for walls. i also see that it's bunched up in places, especially around electrical boxes, stuffed over wires, and that there are voids. any pros out there that can help? thanks.
Asked by justin_dowl - Thu Jun 5 21:35:42 2008 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. R-13 or R-15 is standard for exterior walls, it should not be bunched up around anything it is designed to insulate best when fully expanded, the installer shoud have cut out around electrical boxes, and there shoud not be any voids, any thing that can not be filled with insulation should be filled with a foam in a can product. as far as running it over wires that will offer the best insulation as apposed to cutting around the wires
Answered by Beau H - Thu Jun 5 21:49:35 2008
Q. i'm having work done on my unit and the contractor is using fiberglass insulation that does not have paper backing. it is R-13, which I read is the correct rating for walls. i also see that it's bunched up in places, especially around electrical boxes, stuffed over wires, and that there are voids. any pros out there that can help? thanks.
Asked by justin_dowl - Thu Jun 5 21:35:42 2008 - - 1 Answers - 0 Comments
A. R-13 or R-15 is standard for exterior walls, it should not be bunched up around anything it is designed to insulate best when fully expanded, the installer shoud have cut out around electrical boxes, and there shoud not be any voids, any thing that can not be filled with insulation should be filled with a foam in a can product. as far as running it over wires that will offer the best insulation as apposed to cutting around the wires
Answered by Beau H - Thu Jun 5 21:49:35 2008
What to use for insulation between window panes?
Q. I want to add a 2nd pane of glass (actually plan to use polycarbonate) on my garage door windows. Each door has two 16x40 windows, and I need to use some form of insulation between the panes, such as 1/4"x 1/4" foam. I'll need about 80 feet of this to do the perimeter of the window and also the perimeter of the plastic bezel that hold the panes in place. What would be the preferred product to use? I am thinking of only 1/4" thck since the 16 existing screws that hold the front an back plastic bezels together can be re-used - if I made it thicker, I'd have to replace the 1" screws with larger ones. Will the 1/4" space provide an adeqate air space between the panes? My goal is to prevent condensation and icing on the inside pane.… [cont.]
Asked by Rich D - Mon Dec 4 11:25:26 2006 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. So you heat your garage, and the windows ice up cuz they are cold? And you want to double glaze them, using foam as a spacer? Ok: I can see the 1/4", and about the only problem is whether that will hold the panes apart...if they touch, you lose the insulation value. Polycarbonate is a good choice...it's pretty stable and rigid. Ok...you want a seal that is closed cell foam at least...but rubber would be better, like automotive weatherstriping that won't crush as easy as foam. The little dissicant pack in each window would be good insurance, but if you do it on a cold day and work at enclosing cold dry air between the panes, there isn't any good reason they would frost or fog up inside. Will that double glazing be enough to keep 'em from… [cont.]
Answered by roadlessgraveled - Thu Dec 7 17:54:37 2006
Q. I want to add a 2nd pane of glass (actually plan to use polycarbonate) on my garage door windows. Each door has two 16x40 windows, and I need to use some form of insulation between the panes, such as 1/4"x 1/4" foam. I'll need about 80 feet of this to do the perimeter of the window and also the perimeter of the plastic bezel that hold the panes in place. What would be the preferred product to use? I am thinking of only 1/4" thck since the 16 existing screws that hold the front an back plastic bezels together can be re-used - if I made it thicker, I'd have to replace the 1" screws with larger ones. Will the 1/4" space provide an adeqate air space between the panes? My goal is to prevent condensation and icing on the inside pane.… [cont.]
Asked by Rich D - Mon Dec 4 11:25:26 2006 - - 4 Answers - 0 Comments
A. So you heat your garage, and the windows ice up cuz they are cold? And you want to double glaze them, using foam as a spacer? Ok: I can see the 1/4", and about the only problem is whether that will hold the panes apart...if they touch, you lose the insulation value. Polycarbonate is a good choice...it's pretty stable and rigid. Ok...you want a seal that is closed cell foam at least...but rubber would be better, like automotive weatherstriping that won't crush as easy as foam. The little dissicant pack in each window would be good insurance, but if you do it on a cold day and work at enclosing cold dry air between the panes, there isn't any good reason they would frost or fog up inside. Will that double glazing be enough to keep 'em from… [cont.]
Answered by roadlessgraveled - Thu Dec 7 17:54:37 2006
From Yahoo Answer Search: 'insulation'
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conduit and enters at the rear of the shed to provide light and heat Power for the cameras is supplied as a separate 9v supply and runs in the same conduit as the video leads Heat is provided by a greenhouse heater that keeps the shed at a comfortable 5 degrees during the very cold nights For nights when it s not worth keeping the heat on the buns have two
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Sun, 21 Feb 2010 21:50:00 GM
A Senate committee inquiry will grill six senior Environment Department bureaucrats today over how they dealt with repeated warnings of rorting and safety risks occurring under the Government's home . insulation. scheme.
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